Frequently Asked Questions
Question: My Norvise comes "unlocked" too easily or accidentally, how do I correct this?
This is caused by oil from the bearing on the arbor where the rear hub slides back and forth. Remove the rear hub (the small black "O" ring) and wipe the arbor clean with a tissue, then rub some dubbing wax on the arbor and put it back together, works like a charm.
Question: The brass hubs on my Norvise are becoming tarnished, how can I restore the finish?
When new, the hubs were coated with clear lacquer which will eventually wear off. Although this will not impair the function of your vise, you may wish to restore to a new appearance by using fine grit sandpaper, steel wool or a scotch brite pad. Brass polish will really shine them up also.
Question: What kind of wire do you recommend for making dubbing brushes?
I typically use a soft copper wire about .006 in diameter.
Question: My Norvise doesn't spin as well as it once did, how can I get it back to its original condition?
Likely there is some dirt, dubbing, or other stuff in the bearings. Remove rear hub (small black "O" ring) and the aluminum drive disc so the arbor and ball bearing can be removed. Wash the bearings with WD-40 or a similar product and blow or shake out the excess. When replacing the drive disc be sure to put the side with the ridge around the center hole next to the bearing and don't press the disc tightly to the bearings.
Question: How do I determine the correct dimensions for mounting my Norvise?
There is (or was) a drawing with your vise showing a recommended distance of 14" to 18" for the mounting holes about 1" in from the front edge of your board or table. Some commercial fly tyers will have several mounting holes for optimal spacing depending on what they will be tying at the time. I like mine 16" apart.
Question: How do I stop my Norvise from twisting or slipping on the mounting board, even when I have the screws very tight?
This can be fixed by placing a lock washer between the vise and the mounting board.
Question: The hook shank does not rotate smoothly on my Norvise and it wobbles. How can I correct this?
Be sure the hook is placed correctly in the jaws. The hook shank needs to be right at or just barely above the top edge of the jaws, this is important so the shank becomes the center of rotation.
Question: Sometimes the hook will slip in the jaws of my Norvise. How do I keep it from slipping?
Most likely the hook is set too close to the front edge of the jaws. It is always best to place the hook far enough into the jaws to avoid "single point" clamping which will not hold well and can also damage the very front edges of the jaws.
Question: My Bobbin doesn't retract, what do I do?
Chances are the spool is on the bobbin hub backwards. The spring will only function in one direction. Remove the spool from the hub and turn it over. Be sure not to turn both the hub and spool over, OK? On the new bobbins there is an arrow showing the direction the thread should come off the spool.
Question: I am breaking thread, is the bobbin tube worn?
Most likely the ceramic tube is OK, however it may be full of dirt and wax and simply needs cleaning. A piece of chenille pulled through with thread and a solvent such as lacquer thinner used for head cement works well. Also a dirty bobbin tube will affect the retraction function.
Question: Will the new "Configurations" work with my older Norvise?
Most likely yes. If the front brass hub on your Norvise has two set screws (one for the jaws and the other the arbor) no problem. If your vise is older and has only a single (jaw) set screw we can send you a new arbor with your conversion. If your vise is really old, (20+ years) with aluminum hubs, probably not.